Trad – Misty Mountain Hop

Salbitchin’ on the Sudgrat

26 Sep

Following some great routes but mixed weather in the Grimsel Pass, the perfect window presented itself for a much bigger mountain objective. The famous Sudgrat of the Salbitschijen was the ideal target, with its 16 pitches offering 600m of golden granite...
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It all came together on The Hoarmaster and The Message

22 Jan

When it all comes together there really is nowhere else I would rather be winter climbing than Scotland. Even if that does mean another trip to the ever-reliable Norries… Cold north-westerlies earlier in the week had rimed the buttresses facing...
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More Than We Bargained For on Parallel Gully A, Lochnagar

21 Dec

It’s becoming a common theme that my first winter routes are getting later and later and more and more challenging conditions-wise. The start to this season has been characterized by short cold snaps and strong thaws and it was right after one...
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Feeding the King Rat on Creag an Dubh Loch

13 Jul

Life admin was making a day in the hills difficult and as the incredible run of hot, dry weather continued I began to get cabin fever. Thankfully, the amazing rock climbing conditions showed no sign of disappearing and with psyched...
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Worth the Wait on Transept Groove, Lochnagar

18 Dec

The first routes of the season had been climbed at the start of November and despite the conditions getting better and better, prior commitments, injury and illness had prevented me from getting out to capitalise on them. With relentless social...
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Full Value on The Sandpyper Direct

15 Jul

Cool, breezy weather with some sun in prospect meant that the south-facing and quick-drying crags of Stag Rocks were a good choice last weekend. Despite the route’s reputation, The Sandpyper Direct (HVS), with its bold slab climbing and devious line...
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It’s not over ’til it’s over – The Needle and The Pause

3 Jun

Following a long period of dry weather the hottest day of the year was forecast, warranting a day off from work to capitalise on the excellent mountain rock conditions. With recent ascents on the high north facing Shelterstone Crag confirming dry...
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Dolomiti Super Summer

2 Sep

As good as the Mt Blanc massif is, four trips in a row seemed a bit much and so at last we got around to making a two week pilgrimage in August to the Dolomites. Managing to nail two of...
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Sun and Stars at Costa del Diabaig

12 Jun

With the recent high pressure system bringing hot, dry weather to Scotland, we at last managed to string a few trips together and gradually build up some form. The mountains were calling but having enjoyed a good run of cragging with trips to...
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Ticks in the Glen – Polldubh Crags

29 May

Spring is a great time to go climbing in Glen Nevis – warm dry rock and a distinct lack of midges! It turned out to be even hotter than expected, so we enjoyed two superb days of single and multipitch...
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