Scottish Winter – Misty Mountain Hop

It all came together on The Hoarmaster and The Message

22 Jan

When it all comes together there really is nowhere else I would rather be winter climbing than Scotland. Even if that does mean another trip to the ever-reliable Norries… Cold north-westerlies earlier in the week had rimed the buttresses facing...
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More Than We Bargained For on Parallel Gully A, Lochnagar

21 Dec

It’s becoming a common theme that my first winter routes are getting later and later and more and more challenging conditions-wise. The start to this season has been characterized by short cold snaps and strong thaws and it was right after one...
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No. 6 – The Number of the Mini Beast

22 Mar

As the mini beast from the east reigned windy terror at higher elevations, Ric and I sought shelter at low altitudes on a westerly aspect. We made for the classic No.6 Gully (IV, 4) on Aonach Dubh, which has been reliably in...
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Seeing the Light on Deep Cut Chimney, Hell’s Lum

24 Feb

After a sharp thaw and hard re-freeze, reports of stellar conditions all over the Highlands were flooding in. Not wanting to miss out, Andy and I hatched plans for the Loch Avon Basin in the heart of the Cairngorms. Having...
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The Dog’s Danglies on K9 and Window Gully

20 Feb

A week of heavy snow on gale-force south westerlies rendered many approaches to the popular north and east facing crags fairly serious and covered the cliffs themselves in powder. Wanting none of the peril and the arduous clearing required on...
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Getting the Blood Flowing on Coronary Bypass

12 Jan

Climbing on powder-choked crags was very much the theme during the first week of January, with plenty of snow falling and no thaw-freeze cycles to provide any consolidation. Despite the inevitability of a day of excavation, Andy and I plumbed...
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Worth the Wait on Transept Groove, Lochnagar

18 Dec

The first routes of the season had been climbed at the start of November and despite the conditions getting better and better, prior commitments, injury and illness had prevented me from getting out to capitalise on them. With relentless social...
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Winter-lite on Liathach and Beinn Bhan

13 Feb

Last week a sudden change to cold and snowy weather born on easterlies meant deep powder rapidly swamped much of the highlands. With windslab building on north and westerly aspects and many mixed routes buried in unconsolidated snow, big ridges...
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Lean times in Lochan and that other coire

22 Nov

People have been out enjoying good early season winter climbing conditions since the start of November, but a few days of thaw put an abrupt stop to that until this weekend. Temperatures dropped sharply mid week and snow showers on...
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Gotta Love Spring – Sunny Curved Ridge, Icy White Line

24 Mar

Sitting at my desk while high pressure brought a week of great weather and climbing conditions to the west coast was torture! Luckily the high was forecast to stay put for the weekend, so it was two relieved climbers who...
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