Misty Mountain Hop

No. 6 – The Number of the Mini Beast

22 Mar

As the mini beast from the east reigned windy terror at higher elevations, Ric and I sought shelter at low altitudes on a westerly aspect. We made for the classic No.6 Gully (IV, 4) on Aonach Dubh, which has been reliably in...
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Seeing the Light on Deep Cut Chimney, Hell’s Lum

24 Feb

Andy begins 150 m of perfect neve and ice climbing while cloud and spindrift stream off the plateau above in the strong winds.

After a sharp thaw and hard re-freeze, reports of stellar conditions all over the Highlands were flooding in. Not wanting to miss out, Andy and I hatched plans for the Loch Avon Basin in the heart of the Cairngorms. Having...
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The Dog’s Danglies on K9 and Window Gully

20 Feb

Andy approaching the final steepening after a rising traverse on slightly worrying ice. Photo credit: Joe Dobson

A week of heavy snow on gale-force south westerlies rendered many approaches to the popular north and east facing crags fairly serious and covered the cliffs themselves in powder. Wanting none of the peril and the arduous clearing required on...
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Getting the Blood Flowing on Coronary Bypass

12 Jan

Andy back-and-footing to exit the short chimney at the start of the route - a good introductory pitch.

Climbing on powder-choked crags was very much the theme during the first week of January, with plenty of snow falling and no thaw-freeze cycles to provide any consolidation. Despite the inevitability of a day of excavation, Andy and I plumbed...
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Worth the Wait on Transept Groove, Lochnagar

18 Dec

Joe valiantly perseveres on what we subsequently realised to be the incorrect start to Judas Priest. The true line climbs the groove to the right before stepping left to avoid the roof.

The first routes of the season had been climbed at the start of November and despite the conditions getting better and better, prior commitments, injury and illness had prevented me from getting out to capitalise on them. With relentless social...
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An exposed spanking in the Gorges du Verdon

29 Oct

Andy on the final section of the superbly named Fini au Pipi

A very recent addition to the Misty Mountain Hop family meant an objectively hazardous alpine climbing trip wasn’t on the cards this year. Instead, some chilled bolt-clipping was in order – and that is exactly what we didn’t get in...
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Full Value on The Sandpyper Direct

15 Jul

Ric following on the first traverse of pitch 4, trying to remain positive after witnessing a nasty fall below us.

Cool, breezy weather with some sun in prospect meant that the south-facing and quick-drying crags of Stag Rocks were a good choice last weekend. Despite the route’s reputation, The Sandpyper Direct (HVS), with its bold slab climbing and devious line...
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It’s not over ’til it’s over – The Needle and The Pause

3 Jun

Andy about to begin the bold climbing on the delicate and technical second pitch

Following a long period of dry weather the hottest day of the year was forecast, warranting a day off from work to capitalise on the excellent mountain rock conditions. With recent ascents on the high north facing Shelterstone Crag confirming dry...
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Winter-lite on Liathach and Beinn Bhan

13 Feb

The final stretch of the ridge to Mullach an Rathain affords excellent views into Upper Coire na Caime, the Trinity Gullies and the Northern Pinnacles

Last week a sudden change to cold and snowy weather born on easterlies meant deep powder rapidly swamped much of the highlands. With windslab building on north and westerly aspects and many mixed routes buried in unconsolidated snow, big ridges...
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Lean times in Lochan and that other coire

22 Nov

The tricky bit - having stepped left the search begins for useful placements to allow movement into the gully above

People have been out enjoying good early season winter climbing conditions since the start of November, but a few days of thaw put an abrupt stop to that until this weekend. Temperatures dropped sharply mid week and snow showers on...
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