Misty Mountain Hop

Full Value on The Sandpyper Direct

15 Jul

Ric following on the first traverse of pitch 4, trying to remain positive after witnessing a nasty fall below us.

Cool, breezy weather with some sun in prospect meant that the south-facing and quick-drying crags of Stag Rocks were a good choice last weekend. Despite the route’s reputation, The Sandpyper Direct (HVS), with its bold slab climbing and devious line...
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It’s not over ’til it’s over – The Needle and The Pause

3 Jun

Andy about to begin the bold climbing on the delicate and technical second pitch

Following a long period of dry weather the hottest day of the year was forecast, warranting a day off from work to capitalise on the excellent mountain rock conditions. With recent ascents on the high north facing Shelterstone Crag confirming dry...
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Winter-lite on Liathach and Beinn Bhan

13 Feb

The final stretch of the ridge to Mullach an Rathain affords excellent views into Upper Coire na Caime, the Trinity Gullies and the Northern Pinnacles

Last week a sudden change to cold and snowy weather born on easterlies meant deep powder rapidly swamped much of the highlands. With windslab building on north and westerly aspects and many mixed routes buried in unconsolidated snow, big ridges...
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Lean times in Lochan and that other coire

22 Nov

The tricky bit - having stepped left the search begins for useful placements to allow movement into the gully above

People have been out enjoying good early season winter climbing conditions since the start of November, but a few days of thaw put an abrupt stop to that until this weekend. Temperatures dropped sharply mid week and snow showers on...
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Dolomiti Super Summer

2 Sep

Nearly there! An easy but exciting traverse leads to the exit gully and on to the Ringband - a pitch to savour

As good as the Mt Blanc massif is, four trips in a row seemed a bit much and so at last we got around to making a two week pilgrimage in August to the Dolomites. Managing to nail two of...
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Sun and Stars at Costa del Diabaig

12 Jun

Sustained, well-protected and technical - common themes that would persist on all three of the routes we climbed at this superb crag. Debs on the first pitch of Route Two

With the recent high pressure system bringing hot, dry weather to Scotland, we at last managed to string a few trips together and gradually build up some form. The mountains were calling but having enjoyed a good run of cragging with trips to...
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Ticks in the Glen – Polldubh Crags

29 May

A classic of the crags and one of the best single pitch VS routes we've done - Resurrection

Spring is a great time to go climbing in Glen Nevis – warm dry rock and a distinct lack of midges! It turned out to be even hotter than expected, so we enjoyed two superb days of single and multipitch...
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Paradise in Patagonia

27 May

Inspiring, humbling and terrifying. Whatever feelings are invoked by Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Aguja Standhart, their beauty is absolutely unequivocal

Last Christmas Debs and I had the privilege of spending a few weeks in the Southern Argentinian and Chilean paradise of Patagonia. We experienced an almost-unheard-of run of fine weather for our visits to the Chalten Massif and Torres Del...
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Gotta Love Spring – Sunny Curved Ridge, Icy White Line

24 Mar

Sitting at my desk while high pressure brought a week of great weather and climbing conditions to the west coast was torture! Luckily the high was forecast to stay put for the weekend, so it was two relieved climbers who...
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Hit and Miss but Always Stunning in Torridon

18 Feb

Another view of the same section and about the time we realized this wasn't a grade IV pitch...

The West Buttress (IV, 4) rematch was on! Conditions were good, the forecast excellent and schemes were hatched – we would arrive on Thursday night, blitz Beinn Eighe Friday and enjoy two leisurely days of Liathach ice over the weekend....
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